UCL Achieves FDA Approval for Wrinkle-Improving Functional Cosmetics Using Jeju Mugwort

UCL, a cosmetics ODM and OEM specialist, has become the first company in South Korea to receive FDA approval for functional cosmetics aimed at wrinkle improvement, employing natural mugwort cultivated in Jeju.

The rising consumer demand for technology-based, natural premium ingredients has highlighted a growing fatigue with uniform K-beauty concepts in the global market. UCL has proactively concentrated on developing unique ingredients derived from natural sources, ensuring brand distinctiveness and differentiated consumer value for its clients. The approval for Jeju mugwort-utilized products marks a significant milestone in expanding its diverse ingredient portfolio.

This achievement is noteworthy as it scientifically validates the safety and efficacy of the Jeju mugwort itself, unlike previously established wrinkle-improving ingredients. UCL plans to broaden its reach by establishing a 'K-natural functional material platform' that applies South Korea’s unique natural resources to the global cosmetics market.

UCL’s researchers recognized the potential of mugwort grown in Jeju's distinct environment, characterized by strong sunlight and sea winds. They identified scopoletin, a coumarin compound, as a key indicator component and developed a consistent quality and functionality management framework for Jeju mugwort.

Furthermore, the company optimized key manufacturing processes, including extraction temperature, time, and solvent composition, using Response Surface Methodology (RSM). They are in the process of establishing a 'PhytoProcess Opt Platform' to manage the content of functional ingredients and raw material quality. This technology contributes to increased extraction efficiency and material utility while also reducing solvent and energy usage, promoting sustainable manufacturing processes.

This research was supported by the Ministry of SMEs and Startups’ 'Regional Innovation Leading Companies' R&D project. UCL has successfully built a collaborative R&D ecosystem connecting natural resource discovery, efficacy validation, patent acquisition, and commercialization.

In efficacy evaluations, the Jeju mugwort demonstrated the ability to inhibit MMP-1, an enzyme associated with collagen degradation in human fibroblasts. Clinical trials confirmed its effectiveness in improving skin wrinkles over an 8-week period.

UCL intends to leverage the functional data and material technology obtained to expand offerings in non-regulated wrinkle-improving functional cosmetics and tailored solutions for global brands.

The unified strategy integrates raw materials, clinical evidence, extraction technologies, material stories, and formulation development to propose products that align with the brand strategies of global ODM clients and the specific demands of various markets.

Additionally, UCL is set to present a poster on the UV-induced photoaging protection effects and skin barrier enhancement potential of Jeju mugwort at the upcoming IFSCC Congress in September. The company aims to connect FDA individual assessments with international academic presentations to highlight the scientific competitiveness of K-natural functional materials in the global market.

A UCL representative stated, “This achievement is a case of scientifically validating Jeju's natural resources and merging process technologies with functional data for actual product development. We have established the functional and quality indices of diverse natural raw materials, including Jeju mugwort, carrot greens, and houttuynia cordata. We will continue to enhance the competitiveness of our K-natural functional material platform to actively support brand differentiation for our clients, alongside offering innovative and diverse formulation solutions compatible with this new material.”